Per your requests...
a tutorial on
preparing a sampler
for framing!
I don't claim to be the authority on mounting cross stitch, or know if this is thee
best way.
After much reading
and trying other methods (lacing),
this is the method
I prefer.
Needful items:
3/16" acid-free foam core board (I buy from www.salinepictureframe.com)
short stainless steel beading pins
1/2" Stitchery tape
sewing thread to match linen
a tutorial on
preparing a sampler
for framing!
I don't claim to be the authority on mounting cross stitch, or know if this is thee
best way.
After much reading
and trying other methods (lacing),
this is the method
I prefer.
Needful items:
3/16" acid-free foam core board (I buy from www.salinepictureframe.com)
short stainless steel beading pins
1/2" Stitchery tape
sewing thread to match linen
Cut foam core board to fit the back opening of your frame of choice.
Measure and locate center of foam core board on all sides. I make a tiny pin poke to mark the center.
Locate the center of your sampler. I use the center locating arrows on the chart as a guide, and then refer to my stitched piece. Using the center marking and pin pokes in the foam core as guides, center your sampler on the mounting board, place a few pins on all sides to secure. Pop into frame, checking that the piece is even. Once I'm happy with how the piece is centered, I trim down the excess linen. If you want some "poof" to your finished piece, cut a piece of cotton batting the size of foam core and secure with double stick Stitchery Tape.
Measure and locate center of foam core board on all sides. I make a tiny pin poke to mark the center.
Locate the center of your sampler. I use the center locating arrows on the chart as a guide, and then refer to my stitched piece. Using the center marking and pin pokes in the foam core as guides, center your sampler on the mounting board, place a few pins on all sides to secure. Pop into frame, checking that the piece is even. Once I'm happy with how the piece is centered, I trim down the excess linen. If you want some "poof" to your finished piece, cut a piece of cotton batting the size of foam core and secure with double stick Stitchery Tape.
I like to trim the excess linen down to about 1 3/4" - 2" beyond foam core on all sides. I measure and pull a thread, and then cut along the pulled thread line. With the board still attached to the linen, I machine-serge around all sides, for a nice finish and to prevent any raveling of the linen.Working from the center outwards, begin to pin; pulling linen tightly across the board as you pin. It is at this point that you will keep a close eye on the one thread of linen. Use this thread as your guide, keeping it straight and right along the edge of the foam core board, as you pull and pin.
It is the pulling of the linen that will help remove any creases and wrinkles in the cloth. Start pinning in the center and work outward, towards the corners.
I place my pins about 3/8" - 1/2" apart. After pinning is done, pop the piece into your picture frame to make sure everything is nice and even.Bring excess linen over to the backside of the board and miter-fold the corners. Hand sew the folds of the miter together using matching thread.
Repeat for remaining 3 corners.
I then secure the linen to the board with an archival quality( acid & solvent free) double stick tape, called Stitchery Tape (can be purchased in cross stitch shops). It comes in 1/2" or 1 1/2" widths. I cut a 1/4" wide strip of this, by the length and widths of the sampler. I then apply the sticky side along the row of serged stitches on the backside. Remove the paper backing on the tape and then gently adhere linen to the mounting board for a nice & clean finish.
The pins will remain in the piece.
Your piece is now ready to be framed!Other questions that may come up:
Do you wash your piece before framing?
No, I do not. From what I've read, this is not recommended. I tend to use the hand-dyed flosses and linens and these are not all color-fast. Washing pieces with hand-dyed flosses could result in colors running. I always make sure I wash my hands before beginning and protect my work.
Do you iron your piece before framing?
It is recommended that you use a dry iron. This is an area where I tend to "cheat" at times. I have found the use of a dry iron alone, doesn't always remove the wrinkles and creases in some of today's hand-dyed linens. I then find it necessary to "cheat" and use steam to remove some of these stubborn wrinkles. Some of the wrinkles will smooth out when the piece gets stretched and pinned to the foam core, but some are just too stubborn. It is very important that you have a trusty iron that doesn't "burp" stains, when using steam...that would not be good! I always protect my sampler with a piece of muslin. Always iron the backside of your sampler, placing it right side down on a clean terry towel. Be very careful, as you do not want to over iron...keep your iron moving.
Have a good week,
Brenda
